Tuesday, January 21, 2014

20th January – We meet our Jordanian guide Riad and an Aussie couple who join us.

 We are not regular organised tour people but when the time is limited and the county a bit if an unknown in terms of safely getting around, I think it is an acceptable way to go. I often  think that it would be better to travel independently if you have the time, as you definitely get to absorb the culture to a greater degree. That said, its nice at the end of a long trip not to have to think about logistics of getting around. From our experiences so far the roads in Israel and Jordan would be relatively easy to drive on. The cities of course can get chaotic with traffic but you can always organise around this.

This morning we meet our guide for our stay in Jordan. Riad is an experienced guide. He comes from a small village, where he informs us that baby making is the main occupation. He is one of 12 and he has 7 children of his own! He is a proud Jordanian, happy that his country is seen as a stable oasis in troubled lands. Jordan, he tells us, have always welcomed refugees ever since the 1948 formation of Israel, which displaced many Palestinians right through to the current crisis in Syria. We see some of the refugee camps that are not pretty, but the alternatives could be far worse.

We also meet two Aussies, Larry and Yolie who join us on this tour. They are a retired couple ‘spending the kids inheritance’. They are on an extensive 3 month trip through Europe and Asia. They are fortunate to have a son who is an Emirates pilot, so they can get 10% fares as long as they hub through Dubai, where their son is based …. not a real hardship! It didn’t take long to identify some commonalities. They are from Sydney, near where we live; they used to work in Information Technology, as I did; they both have completed MBAs in later life at UTS and Yolie is now studying Ancient History at Macquarie, where I have attended as well; Larry is a keen fisherman like Gary. No doubt we will find more points of commonality over the coming week….and perhaps if we are lucky, some common connections.

Our first stop is in the northern city of Jerash, a Roman city with ruins and remains that surprise us with their extensiveness and completeness. Its easy for us to draw comparisons with more celebrated sites like Pompeii in Italy and Ephesus in Turkey….yet we had never heard of Jerash ….it is clearly understated. We are fortunate to be able to visit on a clear day with very few fellow tourists. Riad informs us that the tourist industry in Jordan is experiencing a dramatic slowdown, due to the Syrian crisis. As with other countries in the area, tourism is a key industry. So its nice to think that we Aussies are doing our bit as courageous (or perhaps stupid) tourists in troubled times.

Jerash Theatre ... the acoustice were unbelievable.

Geoff and Noelen try out the phone system ... built to Archiemedes design!

Hadrian's Arch ...doesn't he have a wall somewhere as well:)

Can you believe this... an early Roman roundabout. I could just visualise chariots
going around 11 abreast...avoiding some that have decided to park there :)

Local theatre


Main street Jerash ... those aren't parking metres, but I suspect at the time
you would have found a few chariots illegally parked.

The afternoon is for our Dead Sea visit. Having been primed by our first visit on the Israeli side, we are looking forward to another session. Lyn, Julie and Noelene had only swum on the heated hotel pool, so this is going to be their first actual Dead sea experience. Like the Israeli side, the visiting points are all well catered for in terms of facilities for the visitors, with change rooms, pools, spas etc.. The air temperature is between 22 – 25 deg C which is normal for these parts in Winter. Its 400 metres below sea level, so even descending in the van is like descending in an airplane as the air pressure increases.
water bottle collapsing under pressure

The girls are keen to do the mud bath, until they find that its basically taking mud from a common bucket and coating yourself. Looks pretty messy so they change their minds and we just float around. I don the video glasses again so you can view an extract here..... Gary makes a new friend, and Geoff, the Armenian Messiah performs a thong resurrection miracle.






Lyn floating by....

Girls decided to pass on the mud bath after seeing this...

Heard someone mention "Genghis Khan" when I was trying on this hat!


Social Network Update


Today's new connections






19th January – Walk the walls of Jerusalem then off to Jordan

We wisely decide to split up for our last morning in Jerusalem. The boys will continue to take in the culture and sights from the vantage point of the surrounding wall ramparts and then to the Archaeological park. The girls look to grow their VAT savings by going shopping.

The boys get some good photos from the wall into the old city and out to the new city.

Armenian Church from the Ramparts

Western Wall and Temple Mount

Archeological Park


Lots of military presence in the old city

The girls get shopping bags.

We leave Israel with a new appreciation for both the pleasures and challenges that it offers. Jerusalem in particular is iconic for anyone who attended Sunday school as a child and listened to the story of Christmas. For me it was a little like my first trip to London…a place that I had grown up hearing about and then when I finally get there, its surreal.


Lots of security checks at the airport. The Israelis clearly are advanced in security measures (and probably with good reason). While waiting for our short flight to Jordan, Geoff, Gary and I reflect over the map of Israel, with its zone A, B and Cs indicating the different Palestinian areas scattered across the map. It look unworkable and we fail to come up with a solution for the middle east crises (not for the first time :) ). 


The girls go shopping again.

Saturday, January 18, 2014

18th January 2014 – Quiet day wandering around Old Jerusalem then Geoff’s surprise big birthday celebrations

View of Jerusalem from the top of the museum
We are now on our own so we decide to spend the day strolling through the Old City. First stop is the Tower of David museum for a full history of Jerusalem. It is long since as it is the second oldest city in the world, dating back to 3000 BC. Just about everyone has had a go at conquering Jerusalem …. most succeeded. Its all a bit hard to take in when your home country has a recorded history of less than some of the conqueror’s shortest stays of a few hundred years.

We spend the rest of the day just walking the alleyways and markets of the old city. Despite many invitations, we avoid buying any more artefacts. 

Marketplace wares...

This wouldn't sell well back home

Spice mountain

Mount Strawberry

The Damascus Gate. This is the reference point for mileage calculations from Jerusalem to anywhere
else in the world. As you can see there are many people here waiting to start their journeys (just joking)

The diversity of hat ware we have seen here helps us pass the time as we compete to photograph the weirdest hats we see.

These were strongest contenders for the most distinctive hats award...

But in the end this guy won the award for its uniqueness. We didn't see anyone else with
a hat anything like this!
The evening is reserved for Geoff’s surprise 60th birthday. Wife Noelene had cleverly reserved the restaurant for the eight of us, and had them also make the cake. His birthday coincides with the day Armenians celebrate Christmas, so Geoff takes the opportunity to leak a secret he has kept for 60 years …. he is actually the Armenian Messiah! We have a wonderful dinner and then retire to the hotel lounge for the premiere release of a testimonial video I had produced, which I have now renamed “The Life of the Armenian Messiah” (Video).

The Messiah and wife Noelene


Sidebar - Shopping wait time predictor update

Today is Sabbath so most of the shops were closed. Of course there is always window shopping. We notice that we need to extend our formulation to include a 50% (may be tuned over time) discount if the shop is shut:

Wt = S(N*T1/F)

Where Wt = Predicted Wait Time
N = number of women in group
T = mean time for a single one woman visit
F = Fudge Factor for Group Trust

S = 1, if shop open; S = 0.5, if shop closed

17th January 2014 – A Moving Holocaust Memorial, More on Jewish Diaspora Network then we meet our Palestinian Guides

This morning we enter the Holocaust memorial. Effie takes us there but waits for us at the exit … we assume it is too confronting for him to guide us in there. On the way he tells a number of stories about serendipitous connections within the Jewish Diaspora network …. which I indicated at the beginning of this blog, the type that make the connections memorable.  The context here takes the significance of these connections to another level. Here is two of the stories he told:
  •       Effie was most moved by an encounter while he was taking a group of American Jews to the Western Wall. A fellow in his group was looking, in fact staring, across at women in another tour group. Both were quite elderly. He got up the courage to start up a conversation with the woman to find out that she was a long lost sister who was also living in the USA. Neither new the other was still alive!
  •       Effie was living in New York as a child. His mother placed an advertisement in the paper looking for a long lost friend. She was contacted by someone in Philadelphia who thought a Jewish neighbour, who was now blind, may have been this friend. As it turned out it was she. But additionally, when this ‘broker’ heard his mother’s surname she indicated that there was a young man in the same building with this name. It turns out that he was a long lost nephew!

Effie indicated that there were now electronic services looking to broker more reunions like this. No doubt SNA can play a big part here in helping the Jewish Diaspora with its mission of reconnecting lost families and communities. How rewarding would that be!

Model of old Jerusalem on the way to the Holocaust memorial. No photos are allowed inside.

My friends thought I must buy this...
unfortunately not in my size :(
The Holocaust memorial was both memorable and moving. The power of networks, in this case to promulgate an evil message, is unnerving. The memorial museum was an excellent demonstration of how to tell a historical story in a way that those observing will go away knowing that we should never let this happen again. I have always been surprised at the level of persecution targeted at the Jews for reasons I didn’t really understand until now. The persecution started with other religious denominations blaming the Jews for the death of Jesus….and then taken to these extremes by the Nazis. Hindsight is a wonderful thing. But one quotation shown in the memorial attributed to an Australian politician of the time was for me a cause for shame. It went something like “We can do no more (in reference to accepting more Jewish immigrants)… we have no racial problems here and we do not want to import one”… used as an example of how the world was against the Jews. What’s scary is that I’m not so sure that some of our current day politicians are not at least thinking, if not saying something like this, in reference to our current immigration challenges. I hope I’m wrong.

Gary had his prized "birwatcher" hat on so we couldn't
miss this opportunity! We didn't see any btw.
In the afternoon we are off to Bethlehem. Something I wasn’t aware of before the tour was that Bethlehem is under Palestinian control now, so Effie would have to hand us over to a Palestinian guide. We were required to carry our passports (we learn later, not to get into Bethlehem, but to get back into Israel). We are met by a driver, Jeff, who is an American missionary, who amongst other things, coaches a Palestinian basketball team. This isn’t his normal job, he is just helping out  a friend. The bus/van is not in great condition with few of the seatbelts working and some of the seats also not working. We start to see how Israel and Palestine are different…we are back into the “I have a cousin who….” environment we saw in places like Turkey….everyone is networked some how. Effie warned us that one visit for sure will be the souvenir shop which will be connected to our guide somehow. We have lunch at an average cafe…another connection. I start to have to network map what is going on here. Jeff the driver is doing a favour for David who was to be our tour guide. But David has to look after the souvenir store (which is on our itinerary) so has enlisted another guide (K2…his nickname) to guide us. We meet David’s uncle who is over from the USA at the café for lunch (his connection is the restaurant owner). Later K2 arrives…they all know each other well!

Anyway the tour is ok. We see where Jesus was born, where the shepherds first saw the angel, the Orthodox and Catholic churches that now mark the site. I was a little underwhelmed. Someone had decided this was the site and built something for people to line up at to see and/or touch. Nevertheless K2 did a good job of telling us the history of each site and what sits on it now, but is hard to imagine what it would have been like 2,000 years ago. 


People line up to touch the place where Jesus was born ... I hope they got the place it right!

We were told this is a special place in the Catholic church here

This is the guy St. Jerome who translated the bible into Latin. Only took
him 35 years .... obviously pre-google days.

Chris is a life-time St George football fan. Had to get this one
standing next to the original St. George

Us on the site of where the Shepherds net the Angels...
more upmarket now :)
No fancy video animations like on the Israeli side. But the church they built on the Shepherd site was clever ... it had an acoustic roof that would make any Xmas carol singers sound good! Listen here.... 

Last stop is meant to be the dreaded souvenir shop….but we are interrupted by perhaps one of the talking points of our trip. On the way in the van with Jeff and K2 we come across some youths throwing rocks and lighting fires on the border fencing to Israel. The Israelis decide to disperse the crowd with tear gas. Jeff assures us that we were in no real danger as this is not an uncommon occurrence (after K2 had just talked up how the incidences had stopped in order to keep the tourists coming). We get to breath in tear gas for the first time….and are in no mood for the souvenir shop. Jeff is on our side and takes us straight back to our hotel in Jerusalem (I suspect much to the chagrin of David, the Souvenir store owner!). Lucky the happy hour is still on in the hotel so we can get a few nerve settling drinks!

Jeff our expat American driver and Noelene riding 'shotgun"

Tear gas cannisters going off

Not an experience I would recommend!


Side Bar - Commentary on the complexities in the Middle East.

As unnerving as this incident was it provided us with a graphic insight into the tensions in the Middle East. There is high youth unemployment here in Bethlehem and I suspect the youth are filling their time in the same way that youth anywhere in the world would do in the same circumstances. The Israeli response might be considered by some to be heavy handed, but what would you do if someone were throwing rocks at your house? The inequalities between the “have’s and have nots” will always be a source of tension and Bethlehem relies on its tourist trade to support its economy and perhaps be a future source of employment for the unemployed youth. We could see the frustration in K2s face, as we know he genuinely wanted us to have a good experience and tell our friends to come. The last thing he would have wanted was for us to see something like this. Jeff, who is an American expat, here to serve his church and god, provided us with what I felt was an objective observer’s perspective. He understood our fears but assured us that he would not have driven us into any danger. He lives on the border and has become familiar with events like this. He even told us that some of the youths bring tennis rackets to return the tear gas canisters before they land …. its just a game to them.

I think back to one of the first things Effie said to us when we arrived…that he was grateful to Australians for still coming to Israel when the troubles had nearly decimated his business. K2 likewise had indicated how important it was for both Israelis and Palestinians to suppress their differences in order to encourage the Tourist trade, which for both countries, is a very important source of income. Prosperous communities are happy communities. I’ll be telling my friends that they should come and experience this place first hand. Its not really all about good hotels, good food and good tourist sites. I’m sure in the years to come those memories will fade. We will remember the people we met and the circumstances that they live in everyday. Travel broadens the mind and reinforces just how naïve one can be, despite how educated we think we might be. For me, this is why I like to travel and I’m sure that many of my friends and people that read this blog are the same.


 Social Network Update



Today's new connections



Friday, January 17, 2014

16th January 2014 – Exploring old Jerusalem and Sidebar - Jewish Diaspora


 As we were driving into Jerusalem Effie warned us that we will not understand the complexity of this melting pot holy city on a single visit. It takes at least 3 visits, he said. We are scheduled to visit Temple Mount in the old city. It is the site of the original King Solomon temple and now a defined Muslim temple, managed by a committee, but in essence off limits for Jews to worship at despite this place being the holiest of places for the Jews. Effie was not keen for us to visit for a number of reasons, but mostly I think it was the unpredictability of what can happen. It can take more than 2 hours to line up and get in. Your time there is at the whim of the Muslim keepers and can change at any time, he told us. We were all committed to go though as this is meant to me the highlight for Jerusalem. Julie checked Trip Advisor which did nothing to ease our concerns as there was a comment from a Melbourne couple who had only visited a couple of weeks ago and had stones thrown at them by children and were yelled at and asked to leave for no discernable reason.

We expected that Effie would drop us at the gate and not come in with us to Temple Mount. But the next morning he took us in and we found the line quite short. In the line he met a fellow guide who was being allowed in for the first time in weeks, but had to have a police guard. He also indicated to some fellow Jews that they would not be let in as they were carrying prayer mats. We did get in the security gates quickly and without incident. Once inside we could hear a group of woman worshippers chanting. Another smaller male group appeared to be chanting in opposition. Effie indicated that the place was like a tinderbox that didn’t take much to erupt and something like this could do it. In the end we had time to have a good look around and take photos in an uncrowded space. We did decide to leave however when we saw some Police looking to eject someone for nothing obvious …. It was time to leave and be thankful we got in and out without incident.


Muslim temple at Temple Mount

Add caption
The rest of the Old Jerusalem tour was relaxing in comparison. The tunnels under the Western wall were amazing. Its still hard to get used to the idea of cities being built on top of previous cities. We recall Troy having 9 layers. There may have only been 3 or 4 here but they are still excavating. 

Jews praying in the tunnel at the closest point to Temple Mount

Western wall ... closest point for Jews to worship
I didn’t appreciate the significance of the Western Wailing Wall being the closet point where the Jews can reach and pray at their holy site on Temple Mount. We see Jews praying at the exact point in the tunnels (as well as above the ground on the Western Wall).

What's old is new!


Side-Bar 1 – Social Network Analysis and Jewish Diaspora


While walking around this holy city; a complex fusion of religions, nationalities, cultures and histories I thought about whether network scientists had studied and contributed to resolving the complex issues that exist here. From a building communities perspective, I had previously commented that a common language is the strongest of ‘bonding agents’. Religion would have to be a close second. A quick Google search uncovered this article:

“Re-thinking Jewish ethnicity through social network analysis” – by Anna Collar

In Network Analysis in Archaeology : New Approaches to Regional Interaction
Edited by Carl Knappett

Basically Collar found that looking at the Jewish Diaspora as a small world network provides a deeper insight into how religious innovations diffuse across large networks over time. She does identify that only strong ties can influence change, the weak ties can prepare communities for change via information sharing transmissions. Where weak ties do not exist, the communities become inward looking and parochial.

As we have discovered in other contexts, the more a community are connected by dense strong ties, the less likely that the community will be open to change. The religious denominations are strong tie networks. One does not find people who are both Muslims and Christians. There are however people who are happy to be open to the views of multiple religions, but these ‘weak tie’ people are not in a position to influence change. Perhaps it requires the religious leaders to look for points of commonality, rather than points of differences if we are to achieve a more peaceful co-existence between the religious denominations. Interestingly co-existence of religious denominations was the stated objective of the Jews for Temple Mount. Weak ties can still be useful for information dissemination between the denominations, but the denominations have to be open receptors. Our Jewish guide Effie may have had his prejudices, but to do his job well he had to become well informed about other religious denominations. Perhaps weak tie linkers educated like Effie could play an important role in brokering at least a tolerance of religious differences. Perhaps the network scientists can contribute something here.

Back to the Jewish Diaspora …. arguably the largest network of its type, network science definitely has a role to play in sustaining and improving its connectedness.  We have already had discussions with the CEO of an Australian Diaspora network on this very topic. …. more on this tomorrow.

Side-Bar 2 – How do a group of engineers entertain themselves while their wives are shopping?

The initial context is browsing archaeological artefacts in a shop in Old Jerusalem. We sit in on the pitch to our wives on the ‘must have’ artefacts for their display cabinets. First the coins come out and here is the half shekel coin that it cost to enter the Temple in the time of Jesus. Selling for the bargain price of $300 or say 1,000 Shekels. So is this an unreasonably high price? Well not if you apply compounding interest calculations amortized over 2,000 years …. 219,643,102.52 Shekels, so one would suggest that 1,000 shekels is a real bargain. But in reality its just a coin, rather than a piece of legal tender. Its value is intangible (or that is at least what one of the wives argued). So obviously using a compounding interest formula is not realistic. We need to look at the equivalent buying power. In the time of Jesus a half shekel could buy a cow. So how much does a cow sell for today? Well according to Yahoo Answers about $2,000 or say 6,200 Shekels … so still a bargain … well maybe not …but we did use up a good hour discussing this. Julie purchased a 2,000 year old oil lamp for much less than a cow!

Someone else's attempt at calculating the
Shekel's appreciated value over 2,000 years
Geoff in our group uses computer simulations to assess things like coal loading facility capacities, which include waiting times. I decided to challenge him to predict how long we would need to wait when 4 women enter a shop together? Now if it is just one woman, say my wife, I can take an average time over a series of shops of different types…pretty straight forward. But what happens when four women enter a shop together? It unlikely to be 4 times the average waiting time for one….you do get some economy of scale efficiencies. But Geoff baulked at estimating the interaction effects. Group buying decisions can actually negate these efficiencies, especially if all parties are not in agreement. As a network scientist I know that the larger the community the longer it will take to gain a consensus, but this can be significantly impacted by the level of trust and reciprocity in the group….which we believe exists in this case, so we are hopeful that the group wait time may be at the lower end of the range. So tentatively we come up with

Wt = N*T1/F

Where Wt = Predicted Wait Time
N = number of women in group
T = mean time for a single one woman visit
F = Fudge Factor for Group Trust





Thursday, January 16, 2014

15th January 2014 – Early Morning Float then Masada and then to the Holy City Jerusalem



We had been dreading this moment all trip…a dip in the Dead Sea in the middle of winter. We had warmed up with a float in heated Dead Sea water in the hotel last night, but this was 7:30 am in the unheated Sea. As it turned out it was a great morning and the Sea was no cooler than the Ocean at home in Summer. Have a look at us floating around on this video as the “Dead Sea Scrollers”.

Fooling around in the Dead Sea


We head off to Masada, the famous “Jews last stand” against the Romans. This is real desert country and here were the Romans looking to remove less than 1,000 Jews from the top of a mountain plateau fort established in the times of King Herod. In the end the Romans succeeded with the remaining Jews deciding on mass suicide, rather  than capture. The Romans had to spend 3 years building a ramp to the top…you would hardly think it was worth the effort. Looking forward to getting the Masada movie starring Peter O’Toole.

Herod's Fort

Moder day "Warriors" :)

Where the Romans had to camp

Dead Sea


We also call in for a walk in the National Park of En Gedi which is an oasis in this desert. This is winter and the temperatures in the low 20s .

Oasis tramping
A rarity in the desert



Finally the much anticipated arrival in Jerusalem in the early evening.